Ripping the Curl

Glancing at the crashing of the surf

Digging my toes into the hard packed sand

The gray sky meeting the raging sea

Heart beating

Adrenaline pumping

Just the sea

The sea and me

 

Running hands along a waxen board

Inhaling

Waiting for the moment

The waves beat the shore

Now or Never

Dipping one foot into the water

 

One foot then another

Sand slipping away

Waves dancing in their angry play

Icy water sucking at my ankles

Wait

The water sways

Keep moving

 

Waist deep

No turning back now

Salty sting of the spray

Heart pounding

Now is the time to get on the board

 Paddle further out

Away from Safety

Away from the shore

Paddle

Dig through unforgiving water

Now to wait for the next big wave

 

One after the other

Small baby waves

Rocking

Sway

The water swells

It is time

 

Paddle to catch the curl

The tube

The wall

Stand up

Ride the wave

Water closing down

Will I be consumed?

Or will I escape?

 

Ride the wave

Water around you

Walls of foam

Is this your grave?

The moments stand still

 

Escape

Satisfaction

Safety

You survived the wave

Now the question remains:

Ride the whitewater back to shore

Or paddle back out to surf some more?

Reviews

[Shellie]

This to me, was taken in two parts...one really was the experience of surfing and all its highlights and the other was like a message on life...the problems big and small and the question whether to go back and risk it all again...putting yourself in the face of danger but knowing it is work the risk. Its really well done, honestly makes me want to go surf. you did a great job in building up the anticipation to the wave, it started to create a little fluttering heartbeat like you prob would feel when surfing, i have been on a boogey board not as good as a surfboard id say but i know th feling of adrenaline and this poem created that. very well written.

[Kelley]

That was bad a*s I loved it!!!

[Nancy Lee Shrader]

This has always been a frightning sport to me, but you made it exciting.

[Robert Francis Callaci]

An enjoyable read- Liked the surfing metaphor- Also liked the look you gave the poem- the bule script added to the wave and ocean effect- good job

my warmest
bob

[Matthew Kult]

Definately not one to surf, considering I am as graceful as an elephant but I must say this got me all exciting and feeling funny. Made me want to jump out onto the ocean and experience it for myself. Well done.

[Sacred & By Your Si..]

Kind of sounds like a song. I like it. Great work, can't wait to read more.