Two Men's Views of the Alhambra

One man's meat is another man's poison. OK, Let's get the poison over and then enjoy the fillet steak.

 

Two Men’s Tales of the Alhambra.

 

First Man.

          We picked the coach up at Almeiria at 7am. The road to Granada was busy and the fumes as we climbed from the coast defeated the coach’s air conditioning, but here we were outside the gates of the Alhambra at 9 o’clock on a hot August day. A guide met us and we were hustled into a sort of fort before going into a round building where they say they hold open-air pop concerts and other things. Soon the guide started to show us round a big house where Arabs used to live. It was all painted yellow and a reddish colour and it had a lot of sort of trellis all over it painted white. In some of the yards there were ponds but I saw no fish in them. There were so many people that I could hardly see the water. It was quite confusing really, one minute you were in the house and the next in a yard then on a balcony. We were shown these bathhouses where the women lived but I didn’t reckon much to the tiling.

 

The guide said if we hurried we could go up to the garden and palace at the top of the hill but I think it would just be more flowers and fountains and things so I got in a bar, fought my way through the crowd and got a pint of lager and some Tapas. It’s great to go real ‘Spanish’.

 

When the others came down, they were all sweaty and said it was good for the view and the flowers were nice. I chuckled to myself and before I knew it we were back on the bus to have the afternoon in Granada. The guide said there’s some tombs and a cathedral or something but didn’t mention the bars – but I’ll find them – make no mistake!

 

 In the end, there was a bus tour from the hotel round the city by night ending up with a sort of bar crawl if there is such a thing. Well, I didn’t fancy walking round a city full of foreigners at night and looking for the tatty little bars they were using, the guide would know where to take us – leave it to him.

 

These bars are great. I found one with ham shanks hanging up on hooks over your head and a sign saying King Carlos had been there. His picture was underneath to prove it and I’ll swear they’re the same ham shanks. I’m certainly seeing the real Spain. I walked out into darkness and found the bus just before it left. I’d got soaked walking past a fountain when the wind caught the spray and the spray caught me. I don’t know why there’s all this water around.

 

Some of them said they’d have liked the full day in the Alhambra. I can’t believe it - BORING! Everyone was complaining of the crowds. You can’t get near anything to see and there’s crowds of kids round your feet all the time. Still, they say travel broadens the mind. Roll on Benedorm at Christmas.

 

And A Second Man’s Tale

 

We drove to Granada via the Sierra Nevada and visited the snowline and the highest village around, Trevisol; it was like going back in time. The month was November, the weather fine and we allowed several days to see what we could in Granada. Unable to book in at the Parador, we stayed just yards from the Alhambra itself, at the Alhambra Palace Hotel, the walk from which, to the Alhambra is one of the significant experiences of Granada. Waking in a room from the balcony of which the snow-capped Sierra Nevada stretches on either side is an aesthetic experience in itself. To do so with the anticipation of a whole day to spend in the Palace and gardens puts every sense on the alert. At last we shall see this fabled place. It is November; there are no crowds and the sun shines in a blue, morning sky.

 

It is possible, indeed probable, that at some time you will get lost in there. Before even reaching the Palace, we were lost in the citadel, but were soon standing in the circular building at the start of the Alhambra proper. This was the amphitheatre in which are enacted many wonderful dramas and concerts under the stars, indeed the Royal Liverpool Philharmonic Orchestra from my home city featured recently from here on Television. In the gallery above are pictures that would merit some time. This is not a place to come but once, - - - - or is it?  

 

Strolling down long lawns between trees, every corner brings a new avenue, a new vista with, at its end, tantalising glimpses of snow, mountains, ochre walls, fountains and flowers. There is birdsong and always the sound of moving water.

 

Within the Palace, courtyards are filled with golden light, myrtle hedging and yes, water, now still, reflecting the building’s intricate Moorish decoration seemingly complete yet without trace of human or animal subject. Geometric perfection comes alive as a light wisp of wind moves the waters.

 

To wander slowly through the galleries, passages and courtyards, gardens and chambers of this glorious place is to re-live history. The whole atmosphere is redolent with the sense of the creative Arab culture, a culture far more liberal, tolerant and advanced than anything that has replaced it. Scanning the view from the veranda of the women’s quarters, and the room used by Washington Irving while writing his ‘Tales of the Alhambra’ reveals the immense stretch of ancient walls receding up a mountainside. Up there, Flamenco is played and Gypsies now live under their shade and Federico Garcia Lorca was marched to his death at the hands of Nationalists in the Civil War.

 

Lunch is taken in a courtyard restaurant, as much as you please for about five pounds. This in a village street situated within the Palace, before proceeding up to the Generalife, a second, smaller palace, still within the walls. The walk to the top of the hill, past the Torre, a somewhat sombre tower, is through gardens and terraces full of flowers then up steps to the famous long water with fountains arching their sprays along its whole length. Even in the tops of balustrades and walls, on slopes and stairs, there is running water, said to preserve secrecy as matters of state were discussed in hushed tones. Colour is everywhere; in the flowers, walls, sky and in the snowy Sierras. Even our hearts seems to take on a rosy glow!

 

Looking back over the distance to the main palace, the haze of noon has clarified into the richer tones of early evening light, causing red and ochre stucco to take on new depth as outlines of buildings and trees sharpen into deep, black silhouettes.  Shadows grow longer and the darkness of an Andalucean night closes rapidly once more over history. The moon and stars are bright; I catch the strain of guitar music and the scent of mimosa as I reflect on the wisdom of returning, possibly to be disappointed or settling for the memory of one enchanted day. As I leave, I ponder the likelihood of today’s leisured, quiet stroll being still possible ten years on, within the frenetic environment developing within the world of today. We had needed no guide, no screeching banshee to whip up our enthusiasm. We just needed to be here – our enthusiasm came naturally. I suppose the building will still be wonderful but where the peace, where the atmosphere?

 

 

John L. Berry, - Written slowly over the years as the memories matured, the horrors of mass tourism became more apparent and my own memories grew sweeter.

Reviews

[emmajoy]

I truly enjoyed this two dimensional view of the Alhambra.. and very much go with the second man!

As always your writing is very descriptive, even to expressing the first man's views and how he saw things, even tho' experiencing very little in the process.

Thank you so much for sharing..

[Anya]

I love the contrast in the two. I always find it very interesting how two people can have such different takes on life and indeed Alhambra :)

I will be sure to look at more of your work!

[Lily1111]

The contrast between the two versions is incredible. I must admit that after reading the second man's description of his visit, I felt sorry for the first man. Funny how two people can experience the same thing and have completely different impressions of it. The second man immerses himself in his experience, absorbing it all, and seems grateful for everything his senses absorb. He has the wonder and curiousity of child, which I find very appealing. The first man just skims the surface of the experience, like a stone skipping across the surface of a pond. It is as if although he looks at everything, but he really doesn't see it. In fact, he comes off so negatively to me as I read this.

"Some of them said they'd have liked the full day in the Alhambra. I can't believe it - BORING! Everyone was complaining of the crowds. You can't get near anything to see and there's crowds of kids round your feet all the time."

See what I mean? I feel sorry for the first guy.

As always, your lush descriptive writing carried me along as I read. One thing I love about reading your work is that I get to visit places in my mind I may never see in my lifetime through your vivid images and I don't even need a passport. How cool is that?

[bluessadmood]

oh how lovely my friend..its very nice being on a tour to these historic places..and see the wonders of people who lived long ago ..what they did ..the kind of life they had..what wonders they brought about about ..everyone was brilliant in certain things ..i have toured all over Italy and i have seen place i still remember their greatness till now..
you talk about Spain and visiting Alhambra palaces and the city itself..yes i have read a lot about it and its wonders ..about some fauntain that is structured in a way that bring water from far away and works itself by itself with out need for anyone to run if it stopped ..so they tell
i really love the way you tell about all of this i really it felt like it was me going through those streets ..seeing all those wonders done by the Arabs who where there once..
i really loved your writing ..its very exciting ..i could not stop till the end to see what is going on
just love your style..very thrilling to read and ponder ..there is a famous poetry line..Arab poetry ..i will try to translate..
There used to live here once so many people..they built cities and wonders of their own..now these days its time for other to build on what they have done..in times to come still many different people will come and still build yet more and add to what is already there..for each has his own time ..each has his own things to build on
wonderful dreamy write ..i really enjoyed this

[Wondering Mind]

What a contrast between the first and the second! Apart from a wonderful talent that lets the reader into the minds of the two men and how each "reacts" to his surroundings, each version written in well thought-out description and without enforcing opinion on the reader, you convey your important message. Nicely done, if I may add.