The surfer

This is a little poem about a surfer and the experience of being one

The Surfer

By Dave Donahue

 

The surfer sits on his board and looks out to sea'

 

For a wave  that’s perfect to set him free'

 

He sees way out a wave to the west'

 

Thats coming closer to give him a test'

 

Bigger and bigger the wave looms near'

 

And he turns his board and paddles in fear'

 

"Its way to large for me to ride"

 

But he jumps to his feet and takes off with the tide'

 

The sound is deafening as he hears the roar'

 

Of the huge wave around him as he heads for the shore'

 

He is inside it now he can see up ahead'

 

The tube of the wave crashing over his head'

 

And then it’s over the wave spits him out'

 

He made it, he’s done and lets out a shout'

 

The life of a surfer, its all about the ride'

 

Those few moments of being a part of the tide'