How to Build Angled Wooden Sawhorses

How to Build Angled Wooden Sawhorses

A Story by Deborah K. McIntyre

With our hardcore workbenches complete, I've proceeded onward to building a pair of sawhorses for the shop.


While our workbenches twofold great as backings for our mounted saws, in some cases I think that its advantageous to simply move a sawhorse or two set up to help infeed or outfeed, or to create a transitory work surface using plywood or dimensional timber. (This is particularly obvious when we're working outside or around town, or different occasions when our workbenches aren't accessible.)


I'm going to lay out the directions for you here, so you can build your own wooden sawhorses. While a portion of the cuts to make these are unpredictable, I'll make it as simple as conceivable to finish, with itemized settings for your miter saw for each piece. If you're searching for something less demanding to build than these models, Timothy from Charles and Hudson (C&H) gives an extraordinary alternative to simple (but still strong) sawhorses. C&H's sawhorses stack but don't overlay, and the legs edge in just two measurements instead of three.


If you follow these directions, you'll end up with one extremely solid sawhorse estimating 36-1/4″ tall x 32″ long x 33-3/4″ wide. The reason this sawhorse is so solid is that all the downward power is evenly distributed through the legs to the floor. With the legs calculating in, this sawhorse is incredibly steady, and difficult to spill.


Tools and Materials List


Here are the tools and materials you'll have to finish this task. All out expense is under $20, and somewhat less than half of that is for the 6 securing tie. The bridle could be substituted for a more affordable model. With some thrift, this sawhorse could be worked for under $15.


The Shopping List


(3) 8 foot 2-4's


(2) 3/8″ x 3-1/2″ carriage bolts


(6) 3/8″ washers


(2) 3/8″ nuts


(10) 2-1/2″ wood screws


(1) 6-foot securing tie saddle




Compound miter saw (must be fit for slope and miter cuts)


Jigsaw (or comparable alternative, but not a circular saw)




Effect driver (discretionary)




Steps to Make Wooden Sawhorses


Stage 1: Cut the Wood for Individual Components


I've named every leg in the photos beneath to help maintain a strategic distance from disarray. Remember that you'll have to cut miter and incline edges on the best and base of each piece while keeping up the fitting length. All legs should gauge 40″ long after these cuts and every estimation listed accept the workpiece is on the right-hand side of the miter saw, same-side up. It bodes well that legs 1 and 3 and legs 2 and 4 are indistinguishable, in light of the fact that they are a similar piece turned the other way.


Leg 1 and 3 Top: 25° miter right, 10° slope right


Leg 1 and 3 Base: 25° miter right, 10° slope left


Leg 2 and 4 Top: 25° miter left, 10° angle right


Leg 2 and 4 Base: 25° miter left, 10° slant left


Lower Backings: 32″ and 29″ long with 10° miter cuts on the two sides


Upper Help: 24-1/2″ long with 10° miter cuts on the two sides


Cross Part: 36″ long, straight cut on the two sides.


Stage 2: Cut the Notch


You need the cross part to be parallel to the ground, and that requires cutting notches on every leg. Once more, these will be compound cuts, since the legs are calculated inwards two way. You won't almost certainly accomplish the two cuts with a miter saw. That is the place the jigsaw will prove to be useful.


To start with, mark your cut on the two sides of the leg. These lines ought to be "within" edge where the leg interacts with the cross part. The principal line ought to be opposite to the top side of the leg. Set your square set up on the highest point of the leg and draw a line beginning at the best corner. This downward line should gauge 3-1/8″. Note that in the principal picture underneath, the slide on the square is contacting the highest point of the board (the edge in the image doesn't demonstrate this well).


Your next line will shape a correct point and proceed with the right to the edge of the 2-4. If you've done everything accurately, it'll measure 1-1/2″ long.


When you turn the 2-4 on end and draw a line between the two edges, it'll have a similar 10° point as the best, on the grounds that on each side of the 2-4 you quantified from the highest point of that side of the board.


You can make the primary cut with your miter saw set to a 25° angle and 10° miter. Be watchful with the profundity of this cut, as the profundity fluctuates over the cut due to the 10° slope.


The second cut should be done with a jigsaw or handsaw. Be mindful so as to keep the edge perfectly straight here and there, and utilize a piece of scrap wood to help level the jigsaw. Keep in mind that the lines on the opposite sides (best and base) are counterbalanced (by 10°) so one side will be done before the opposite side. We suggest putting the 2-4 with the shorter line to finish everything. Towards the finish of the cut, you should marginally point the jigsaw in reverse, or you will cut too profoundly at the best.


Stage 3: Drill Bolt Holes


Next, you'll drill a hole for the carriage bolt which will go about as a pivot to crumple the sawhorse. Drill the hole 6″ down, focused on the 2-4. It's ideal if you drill through the two legs in the meantime. Legs 2 and 3 are arranged within (1 and 4 outwardly), and you should drill the holes in a similar introduction. So as to focus the 2x4s at the opportune spot, you'll have to utilize a piece 2-4 in the hole created by the notch. At the point when the 2x4s are appropriately adjusted, the notch ought to immovably hold the 2-4. Clip the 2x4s set up before drilling.


Stage 4: Insert the Carriage Bolts and Washers


Both carriage bolts will point downward when the sawhorses are totally gathered, and this is alright. Put two washers on the bolt in the middle of the legs to permit them swing. Put on a third washer by the nut, and fix it.


Stage 5: Attach Cross Backings Using Wood Screws


Presently it's a great opportunity to include the three backings that associate the two pairs of legs. Before you secure them set up, drill pilot holes to abstain from part the wood, since you'll be working near the end grain. Put two screws on each side, and ensure the edges are flush with the legs. I set the lower underpins 6″ up the leg and the upper help about a similar separation down from the best.


Stage 6: Install The Strap


Some portion of the magnificence of these sawhorses is that the cross part is solidly sandwiched set up by the legs. To keep everything pleasant and tight, utilize a locking strap (or tightening strap) to pull the legs together to the extent they will go. You can also utilize the strap to verify the cross part when the sawhorse isn't set up.


Even however these directions are somewhat muddled, the finished result is well justified, despite all the trouble. This sort of sawhorse is solid and should keep going quite a while. 

© 2019 Deborah K. McIntyre

Author's Note

Deborah K. McIntyre
It is collapsible, and the cross part can be modified to all the more likely suit your necessities. For example, I've seen v-notches cut to prevent pipe and channel from rolling endlessly. You could also build different stature cross individuals to help to differ infeed/outfeed bolster statures. Read more

My Review

Would you like to review this Story?
Login | Register

Request Read Request
Add to Library My Library
Subscribe Subscribe


Added on March 21, 2019
Last Updated on March 21, 2019
Tags: saw horses, wood saw horses, metal saw horses