2015 Fashion Goes Fully Local

It’s the start of a new year, and for most of us that means resolutions to make (and eventually break, as in the inevitable desire to strive for that flat belly or eat less pizza).

But whether your resolutions involve looking for a new job, trying to win that special someone’s affection, or getting some much-deserved approval from the boss, it’s always best if you’re dressed to impress.

The Jakarta Globe spoke with a number of top Indonesian fashion designers, experts and observers about the new styles to watch out for in 2015.

Femme Fatale

“Today’s women are very health-conscious,” says Taruna K. Kusmayadi, chairman of the Indonesian Fashion Designers Association, or APPMI.

“They eat healthily and go to the gym to get the body that they desire.”

As the result, according to Taruna, women want to show off the results of their hard work with attractive dresses.

Illusion-panel dresses with tulle or mesh materials that show some skin will be a favorite this year, he predicts.

To accentuate their curves, women will also wear fitted A-line dresses in 1960s style.

“These dresses give women a sexy hourglass silhouette,” Taruna says.

But today’s women won’t be willing to forgo their comfort to get the sexy look that they want.

red carpet dresses

“They would rather choose finely tailored items to achieve that look than suffering under a corset,” Taruna says.

Celebrity fashion designer, Arantxa Adi agrees, saying women can afford to be much more picky these days.

“Women hold much better careers and positions in societies nowadays,” she says. “Therefore they’ll choose something that’s comfortable for them.”

Arantxa predicts that evening gowns in 2015 will be embellished with more intricate details, such as fringes, embroideries and cut-out panels.

“Off-shoulder dresses will also be in this year,” she adds.

For formal events, more Indonesian women will choose to wear the kebaya, the traditional women’s blouse, with a kain (pareo).

“Iriana and Veronica set off that trend last year,” says Taruna, referring to the first lady, Iriana Widodo, and Veronica Tan, the wife of Jakarta Governor Basuki Tjahaja Purnama.

Following their examples, the kebayas that will be in vogue this year are the neat and simple kebaya kutu baru and kebaya peranakan.

Kebaya kutu baru is a basic Javanese blouse with long shawl lapels that run down side by side with a horizontal bridge in between.

“These kebayas allow only minimal embellishments, such as lace and embroideries at the lapels or cuffs,” Taruna says.

Kebaya peranakan, meanwhile, is influenced by the cheongsam, the traditional fitted Chinese dress, and generally has a longer torso that covers the hips and V-shaped front hemlines.

Taruna says that for semiformal events, these kebayas may be paired with knee-length pareos, instead of the full-length kain.

Selendang, or shawls, which are usually paired with kebayas, will also feature prominently this year, says Helen Dewi Kirana, a fashion designer.

“They’re so versatile,” she says. “You can use them to cover your shoulders in chilly, air-conditioned rooms, or tie them up and use them as halter-neck tops or as chic pareos.”

Helen predicts that shawls with contemporary patterns will be preferred over traditional ones.

Classic Oriental styles will influence cocktail dresses and smart casual wear this year, says Didi Budiardjo, a fashion designer.

“I call them the styles of the dragon empires,” he says. “These styles are derived from the ancient kingdoms in Japan, China and India.”

Didi’s most recent fashion show featured lavish kimono-style overcoats made of silk satin, jacquard and West Sumatran songket, a handwoven textile with gold or silver weaves, as well as cocktail dresses with the high collar of a cheongsam.

The rigid structures of these Oriental-style items give the wearer a tough, invincible look.

Didi also predicts that handwoven textiles with various vibrant motifs and textures will be preferred for jackets and overcoats than batiks this year.

“I think West Sumatran songket are the best when you want to present a glam look,” he says.

Besides songket, the classic and elegant tenun Troso and tenun Jepara from Central Java, as well as the vibrant tenun Endek from Bali will be favorite materials for women’s clothing this year, Didi says.

“Men will take on more flamboyant styles this year,” says fashion design industry chief Taruna.

“They will no longer hesitate to buy fashionable items with vibrant colors and motifs.”

He says “shocking” colors such as baby pink, fuchsia and lime green will no longer be considered a faux pas in men’s clothing.

Motifs will also be another in thing, and will range from houndstooth and paisleys, to polka dots and stripes.

“Men are definitely getting more fashion-conscious these days,” Taruna says.

This also means they will opt for suits and jackets with neat, streamlined silhouettes rather than oversized ones.

“Darts will be much used for men’s jackets to give them a more finely tailored look,” Taruna says.

Padding will still be used in men’s jackets, but in a much less perceptible way than in the past, he predicts.

For formal events, Indonesian men will pick long-sleeved batik shirts over suits and ties.

“This trend is probably set off by the new president [Joko Widodo], who wears batik shirts at almost all local and international events,” Taruna says.

But it won’t be just any batik shirts.

“Today’s men are very discerning in their choice of batik. They understand the makes, patterns and quality,” Taruna says.

As men’s appreciation of batik increases, those who can afford it will continue paying sky-high prices for the exclusive, high-quality products using only the finest textiles.

“The late Iwan Tirta’s classic batiks will be all the rage this year,” Taruna says, “because their patterns and workmanship are clearly apparent, even from afar. They’re like symbols of status and wealth.”

Printed batiks are definitely out of the question for men of certain rank and social status.

“Today’s men wouldn’t want to be caught wearing printed batiks by their friends and colleagues,” Taruna says.

“It would be a great shame.”

Besides batik, men will also consider Indonesian tenun, or handwoven textiles, as a material of choice for their formal jackets.

“Balinese and East Nusa Tenggara tenuns will be much preferred this year,” Taruna says.

“Balinese tenuns have bold, geometric designs in vibrant colors, while tenuns from East Nusa Tenggara have exotic tribal designs in dark, earthy colors.”

Besides the colors and patterns, the stiff material of these tenuns also makes them ideal for crafting into structured formal jackets.

Actor-turned-designer Opi Bachtiar recently presented his spring/summer 2015 men’s collection in Jakarta that was themed “Savannah” and featured clothes made entirely from handwoven textiles unique to Sumba Island in East Nusa Tenggara.

These included men’s jackets and overcoats in edgy deconstructed styles.

“When you touch the textiles, you’ll feel how precious they are,” Opi says.

“They’re woven in many months by the hardworking women of Sumba, and the weaving tradition is passed down from one generation to the next. When you wear them, you’ll also feel their pride.”

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