An American Odyssey

An Irish couple`s 4 week trip to Boston, Chicago and Northern California.

American Odyssey Trip 2005          by Noel MacEntee.  Word Count 4,192,    

Itinerary:  American Airlines operator, except otherwise stated.

LV. 11.05 am. 5th June. Shannon, Flight 211 Economy, Seats 31D & 31C. 

AR. 12.35 pm. 5th June. Boston.

LV. 10.35 am. 10th June. Boston, Flight 1547, Economy, Seats 13B & 13A.

AR. 12.09 pm. 10th June. Chicago, O`Hare. 

LV. 09.07 am. 20th June. Chicago, O`Hare. Flight 1425, Economy, Seats unassigned.

AR. 11.15 am. 20th June, Santa Ana, California.

LV. 1.18 pm. 20th June, Santa Ana, Flight 6873, Economy, Seats unassigned, Alaska Airlines, operator.

AR.   2.37 pm. 20th June, Oakland, California. 

LV. 8.00 am., 28th June, San Francisco, Flight 196, Economy, Seats 20D & 20E.

AR. 4.37 pm., 28th June, Boston, 

LV. 8.50 pm., 28th June, Boston, Flight 212, Economy, Seats 34A & 34B.

AR. 7.40 am., 29th June, Shannon.

Sunday 5th June, 7.30. am.

 Dropped off at Shannon Airport by Seams Byrne, a neighbour of Mary’s (my fiancee) from Clonroadmore ,  Ennis.  He was on his way to work as an electrical engineer at the ESB generating plant, at Money point, along the shores of the Shannon River.

Checked-in with the American Airlines desk, then awaited on US Customs Pre-Clearance to open.  I (Noel) happened to notice that our flight tickets were marked “Not Valid for Transportation” and my pre -flight anxieties kicked in, so I had to go back to the American Airlines desk who assured me that the wording on the tickets was standard fare and would not affect our travel.  Suitably reassured, we purchased the Sunday newspapers and adjourned to the airport restaurant for breakfast. US Customs Pre-Clearance procedure went without any hassle and our flight took off on time.  Our 23 day American Odyssey was now off the ground, after weeks of pre planning and discussion.

Principally, it centered around 5 days in Boston meeting with first cousins and enjoying the sights, 10 days in Chicago visiting with my brother Peadar and his wife and family, then 8 days in Northern California visiting my cousin and exploring Napa Valley and San Francisco.

3.00. pm. After checking in to the Shawmut Inn, our base for the first 2 days in Boston, we walked around in very humid temperatures and checked out our Fleet Centre neighborhood, where the Boston Bruins Hockey Stadium was located.  Founded in the mid-1920`s, purchased by Charles Adams, president of Brookside Stores, he wanted to apply the chains colours of brown and gold to the professional franchise, linking the two entities. He held a contest to find a suitable name, requiring that it “relate to an untamed animal whose name was synonymous with size, strength, agility, and ferocity and cunning: and in the colour brown category”. The team name, Bruins, resulted from the competitive entries. After visiting the Stadium, we enjoyed some locally brewed beer and food - most welcome refreshment, as we were beginning to feel the effects of jet lag.

6.00 pm. By pre-arrangement, we meet with my cousins Margery and Anne, and with their respective partners, David and Bill. We were welcomed by them to the Union Oyster House, at 41 Union Street, a national historic landmark and advertised as America’s Oldest Restaurant. It specializes in hearty portions of Yankee style seafood, fresh New England lobster and famous clam chowder.  The restaurant is on the Freedom Trail, one block from the historic Faneuil Hall. A wonderfully convivially evening was passed with plenty of catching up with family news, together with lots of recommendations for the top visitor attractions to visit during our short stay in Boston. 

Monday, 6th June. 

Day two, after breakfast at the Shawmut Inn, we headed out on the Freedom Trail, to explore some of its delights. Using our “Go Boston” cards, purchased on arrival in Boston Airport, we used the “hop-on, hop-off” Bean-town Trolley service, together with “shanks mare”.  First stop was a visit to the Old State House. Built in 1713, this historic landmark served as the seat of colonial and state governments as well as a merchant’s exchange. It is the site of the 1770 Boston Massacre when British soldiers fired into a crowd of Bostonian s. 

Next stop was a visit to Faneuil Hall, an old market building built in 1742, sitting at the site of the old town dock. Samuel Adams protested at Town meetings here against the imposition of taxes against the colonies.    

 Dropped off at Paul Revere`s House, the oldest in downtown Boston, built about 1680, occupied by the Revere family from 1770 to 1800. Over the years it has had many uses, including as a cigar factory and bank, before being restored by the Paul Revere Memorial Association. It was patriot Paul Revere who planned the hanging of warning lanterns in the steeple of the Old North Church on April 18th, 1775, to warn that the British were coming. 

 Introduced by a guide to the Old South Meeting House, built in 1729 as a Puritan house of worship, it was the largest building in colonial Boston. In the days leading up to the American Revolution, citizens gathered here to challenge British rule, protesting the Boston Massacre and the tax on tea. It was here at an overflow meeting on 16th December 1773 that Samuel Adams launched the Boston Tea Party.

Tuesday, 7th June. 

Day three, we left the Shawmut Inn for our new base, a bed and breakfast on Beacon Street, off Boston Common. We passed by the famous Cheers pub of TV fame , sadly now closed due to the fact that lots of tourists called to take photographs there but buying nothing. Taking the Bean-town Trolley to the Museum of Science, we attended a showing of “Mysteries of the World” in the Omni IMAX Theatre. The screen was awesome, as it curved right over ones head.  Scenes of fabulously coloured butterflies fluttering overhead were simply stunning.  Both Mary and I got to play in the Children’s Interactive Section and Noel learned about some Facts of Life that were missing from his knowledge bank. 

Later, we climbed on boarded a Boston Duck Tours (Designed Amphibious Cargo Carrying Vehicle), world war two ex-military vehicles.  Our Captain was Colonel Duct Tape, a very comedic and entertaining driver.  Our Conductor brought us cruising passed by all the places that made Boston famous, before plunging straight into the Charles River for a breathtaking waterside view of the city.  Our Captain, in costume, ensured that the history of Boston was brought to light with great lore and stories of legend. It was a fully involved fun trip where we had to shout out “quack quack” at passersby.  Some of the Duck jokes heard during our tour:

Q. At what time does a duck wake up?

A. At the quack of dawn.

Q. What did the duck say when the waitress came?

A. Put it on my bill!

Q. What do ducks have with soup?

A. Quakers   

Q. What do you call a duck with fangs?

A. Count Duckula!

Q. Why don’t ducks tell jokes when they fly?

A. Because they would quack up!

A boat ferry took us around the Bay to the Charlestown Navy Yard, home to the USS Constitution, the oldest commissioned warship afloat in the world today, a floating maritime/navy museum. Nearby the USS Cassin Young was refitted and modernised in the yard’s dry-dock and it represents the type of ship built in the yard during World War II.  Visible in the distance, the Junker Hill Monument, dedicated in 1843, commemorates the Revolution’s first major battle, testing colonial unity and convictions against the might of British forces.

Wednesday, 8th June.

 It is hot, very hot, very very hot �" 86 degrees Fahrenheit. After coffee and home-made muffins in a local bakery/coffee house, we took a bus to the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum, the nation’s official memorial to the 35th President of the United States of America. The exhibits are designed to tell the story of JFK as much as possible in his own words and offers visitors a “you are there” experience of the world in the 1960`s and the Kennedy's White House. It was a wonderful experience, from  film footage, mock up of a TV studio and cameras from the Kennedy-Nixon debate, Democratic selection speeches, Cuban Missile Theatre, Space Program, up to and including Walter Cronkite’s announcement of JFK’s assignation on 22nd  November 1963.  A few hours visit hardly does the exhibition justice and a return trip would be most rewarding. Mary and I did a spot of “retail therapy” in the well known bargain Filene`s basement, then on to a wonderful Mexican restaurant named “Fajita’s and Rita’s” for Tacos, Mexican beer and Margaritas.          

Thursday 9th June. 

Harvard Graduation Day, so we had to vacate our B&B and switched to an inferior establishment up the street but it is only for 1 night.  Then we caught the 3.15 pm. Newbury/Rockport Railway from North Station to Salem where 19 innocent people were hanged in 1692 due to the unfounded Witches allegations of local hysterical girls. The home of the Witch Trial Judge Jonathan Corwin is open to the public. Despite huge fans on full blast in every room, we nearly expire with the heat. Professional guides lead us through the 17th, 18th and 19h, ,   architectural century style Turner-Innersole Mansion, who’s wealth came from the Triangle Trade and the Golden Age of Sail.  Lunch was courtesy of a wonderful local fish restaurant, served up by an Irish student named Erin, working there on a J1 Summer Visa.

Friday 10th June. 

Beacon Street, up early and its extremely hot once again. I go looking for a taxi cab and, in common with the world-wide taxi driver’s tradition, turned out to be a philosopher, as well as being a path finder through side streets but had to find another route, as one street was closed, so he deducted $5 off the fare. He said he was a good old Southern boy and was heading back there next month, where despite the pace of life being slower, progress and wealth still reigns. He took us to the Airport where our bags are checked in at the kerb, one of the benefits of flying through with the same airline. Impressive.  

We arrive at Chicago O`Hare airport on time but, due to a gap in-communication, no one was there to pick us up. A phone call to my sister-in-law Magdalene sorted the problem and she soon arrived to pick us up, with the warmest of welcomes, in her Lexus four by four.   She drives us to her home in Palos Heights, south side Chicago, our new base. My brother Peadar arrived home after a long days work and gave us a “royal welcome”. A great nights food, wine and great chat followed. Then to bed, a luxurious, en-suite, air conditioned room. Heaven. 

Saturday 11th June. 

Up at 6.00 am. for golf, four-ball with my brother Peadar, my nephew and a family friend.  Unused to unfamiliar clubs, I have a poor round but good fun nonetheless.  My sister-in-law Magdalene goes for early morning tennis and Mary relaxes at home. Later she makes her first trip to the clothing chain “Target”, with the queen of shopping. Later still we take up an invitation for a barbecue dinner at the home of my golf companion. Wine flowed too freely and, unfortunately, Mary became quite ill during the night. 

Sunday 12th June. 

The final day of the Chicago Blues and Jazz Festival, so we all go down town to the Millennium Park, bounded by Lake Michigan. Its crown jewel is the Music Pavilion (shell shaped) and Great Lawn, designed by superstar architect Frank Gehry. The Park also contains fountains, a promenade and a skating ring. Lots of kids could be seen having a brilliant time running in and out of ground water maze that fired up jets of water at unpredictable times, cooling off from the ambient heat.  Jazz and Blues musicians were dotted all around the Park, one being more talented than the next. Superb. 

Monday 13th June.

 Packed our bags once again for a trip to Saugatuck, Michigan. My wonderful sister-in-law Magdalene has hired an Enterprise hire car for us. We had a good drive along secondary and Free Way roads, but it was very hot and humid so stopped at New Buffalo for coffee. Arriving at our destination, we had dinner with Walleye fish in the Butler Hotel. Bit of a conflict of choice, as Mary wanted to go for a swim but Noel wanted to drive about exploring. Noel won out but picture and no sound resulted. 

Tuesday 14th June. 

We both had a swim, hot tub and breakfast, in that order. I had a massage, Mary went shopping. Ventured out on a paddle boat ride on the Kalamaro River but its too windy for the boat to venture out on Lake Michigan. Did a bit of shopping in a town named Holland and visited a very stylish American Quilt shop. Then a drive back to Palos Heights for food, chat and bed.

Wednesday 15th June.

 My brother Peadar`s day off, so we head downtown to the Art Institute of Chicago. Wonderful art on display, including French Impressionist, Egyptian, Asian and Native American but it was a whistle stop tour only, as we have tickets for the Chicago Cubs baseball at Wrigley Field and we are pressed for time. Tickets cost $36 each, my brother Peadar`s treat to us, but being unfamiliar with the game, I  found the 3 hours play a bit boring, as the Cubs play was rubbish. Enjoyed the hot dogs, beer and chat, as I rarely get a chance to talk with my brother Peadar face-to-face. We met the mother of the first Catholic Chaplin to the US Senate, a supporter of the Cubs, and originally from Cork. Dinner in a very up market, expensive Italian restaurant where we were not allowed to pay our share of the bill. Instead, I bought a lovely bottle of Amarone Italian wine at $150 and my sister-in-law Magdalene loved it.           

Thursday 16th June.  

Departing from Navy Pier, we took a one hour Architectural Cruise on the Chicago River. Sights included the timeless and elegant Wrigley Building and Tribune Tower, the dramatic 333 West Wacker Drive with its sleek curved glass walls, the classic Bauhaus styled IBM Building and the world famous Sears Tower. The Chicago Trump Tower ostentatious multi-storied building was under construction along the water’s edge. That afternoon we toured the Body Worlds exhibition at the Museum of Science and Industry. Nothing like it had never been seen before, anatomies of humans and animals on display, with all their sinews, organs and musculature to be seen. It was awe inspiring. We then followed this up with a visit in the same location, entitled Mystery of the Nile.    

Friday 17th June.  

We spent the day at the collection of entertainment complexes along Navy Pier, including the renowned Forest Gump restaurant and purchased one of their beer tankards to take home as a souvenir.  A ride on a high Ferris wheel gave great views over the harbour area, even for me so scared of heights. My sister-in-law Magdalene later brought us to the Navy Pier Theatre for a performance of the abridged works of Shakespeare.  Expecting a cultural evening, she was shocked to discover it was a fast paced bawdy display but we enjoyed her discomfort and screamed with laughter at the terrifically paced performances. 

Saturday 18th June. 

On the way to visiting and over nighting with my uncle in Twin Lakes, Michigan we spent the afternoon and early evening attending an outdoor picnic and performance of A Prairie Home Companion �" News from Lake Wobegon �" by Garrison Keilor broadcast live on National Public Radio. It was like something from the 30`s with wonderfully old fashioned jokes:

A man walked into work on Monday with a black eye. His boss asked him what happened.

The man said “I was sitting behind a big woman in church. When we stood up to sing hymns, I noticed that her dress was caught in her crack, so I pulled it out. She turned around and glared at me.” “Where did you get the shiner?” the boss asked. “Well”, the man said, “I figured she didn’t want it out, so I pushed it back in.”

A little old man shuffled slowly into an ice cream parlour and pulled himself slowly, painfully, up onto a stool. After catching his breath, he ordered a banana split.

The waitress asked, “Crushed Nuts?”

“No, arthritis”.               

Sunday 19th June. 

My uncle was quite elderly and mainly house bound, so it was great visiting and staying with him and his family overnight, as we had good fun and he was delighted to hear family news from home in Ireland, despite him living in the States for over 50 years. My brother Peadar explored one of the Twin Lakes by Canadian Canoe while barbecue lunch was being prepared. After a wonderful repast, we said our goodbyes and headed back south for Chicago.

Monday 20th June. 

My sister-in-law Magdalene dropped us off at O`Hare Airport for our 9.07 am. flight to Oakland, via John Wayne Airport Santa Ana, California. Arriving at 2.37 pm. we picked up our pre-booked Enterprise hire car. Due to the fact that we had recently hired a car with Enterprise in Chicago, they kindly treated us to an upgrade for no extra cost �" a Nissan Murano four by four, three litre luxury vehicle. I was in seventh heaven, having previously been a vocal opponent to this type of gas guzzler, I was immediately converted to the “dark side”.  We then drove to my cousin Brendan’s home in the nearby hills. Unfortunately he had suffered a major stoke since we had made prior plans to visit with him. He was only recently home from Hospital and was very weak but, despite major weight loss, it was a great relief to see that he had survived. Due to his state of health, we were only allowed to spend one hour in his company. He was very pleased that we had come so far to visit him. We then headed off north to Yountville, Napa Valley, and our base for the next three days.  Arriving late into the evening, we had just time to check into our bed and breakfast, grab a bite to eat and hit the sack.

Tuesday 21st June.   

We are based in Yountville for the next three days. It is a very upmarket holiday resort, popular with wealthy Americans, overseas visitors and Oenophiles alike.  Mary and I had made previous wine trips to both France and Italy, so we were keen to make a tour of the Napa Valley vineyards. The highlight was a visit to the Duckhorn vineyard, who’s wines retail for $100 each on average. It was immaculately laid out and the wine shop and tasting area were fabulously furnished, little restriction obviously on its cost. Most impressive. We purchased some wine to take home and as gifts, after a suitable tasting of various vintages.  Estate after estate was equally impressive, as we drove past, and it was plainly evident that this was a very wealthy part of the west coast.

Wednesday 22nd to Thursday 23rd June.

Unbeknownst to Mary, I had sneakily booked a 6.00 am. early morning balloon ride over the Napa Valley at a cost of $250 each, including a post flight champagne breakfast. In truth, I was terrified, but prepared to go out on a limb, because I knew it would be the highlight of the trip for Mary. We somehow ended up in the smallest basket with just one other couple and the senior company pilot. For the first couple of hundred feet I could not utter a word, or look down, being frozen in fear. I then began to thaw out and enjoy the ride. Mary was in her element. The early morning mists began to burn off and the rows and rows of grapes came into view. Napa Valley is contained in a crater bowl and is surrounded by a rim of high hills. Before long it became time to land and our pilot expertly burned off the helium and landed in the centre of an urban baseball field. We were elated and I think the champagne in the breakfast went to our heads.  We purchased two coloured sketches of the vineyards by a local artist which now adorn our walls at home. On a feeling of elation, I convinced Mary for us to check out the Yountville Inn, a five star hotel, for an overnight rate, normally costing in the region of $600. I approached the reception desk which was manned by a young man with a Donegal accent. To my incredulous disbelief, I actually knew his uncle in Ireland, resulting in our obtaining a suite at very minimal cost. We could not believe our good fortune and made the absolute best of the next 24 hours of hedonistic luxury, which included our chilling out in the poolside heated Jacuzzi at 2 am.  

Friday 24th June to Monday 27th June.

We packed our bags once more and headed south to San Francisco, our final stop before the end of our trip. On our way we stopped off to explore the wonderful redwood forests and sighted there some of the largest specimen trees in the world. The four by four vehicle made short work of the forest trails and greatly facilitated our sightseeing adventure. We drove through San Diego and soon passed over the famous red Golden Gate Bridge, guarding the entrance to San Francisco city. Dropping the car back to the Enterprise rental unit, I was very reluctance to relinquish the Murano`s car keys, having been totally captivated by its week of driving. 

Our hotel for the next few days was just off Union Square, a very central location, and a great base for exploring by foot and by trolley bus.  One of the less desirable features of this city was the existence of so many vagrants on each street corner. I understand that the mild winters without snow contribute a lot to their existence.  We took a trolley bus to Fisherman's Wharf and I clung on to its outside, just copying the locals, but was very nearly side swiped by a passing truck.  Alcatraz, or “The Rock”, former prisoner colony for high security inmates, loomed across San Francisco Bay in the gloomy, misty morning but it was out of our reach, reservations needing to have been made two or three days in advance. A long line had formed for the return trolley bus journey when a stretch limousine driver canvassed the line for passengers at $5 a pop, so we traveled back down town in salubrious comfort.

Passing  Christopher Clark`s Fine Art Shop on 377 Geary Street, close to our hotel, Mary and I amused ourselves by  perusing their  beautiful paintings which were  way above our level of affordability.  The charming proprietor was soon making small talk with us and before we knew it, we were negotiating for the purchase of two original etchings by Pierre August Renoir (French, 1841-1919) entitled “Femme Nue Couchee (Tournée A Droite), 2e planche c.1906 and Baigneuse Debout, A Mi-Jambes. C.1910, printed sometime after the edition published in the Theodore Duret book Histoire des peintres Impressionistes, by Floury, Paris, 1923.. It was Mary’s purchase, so I will not reveal the price which included the cost of insurance and transport back home to Ireland.

We celebrated by indulging ourselves to some very high quality wines in a nearby stylish wine bar, with tasting notes on each glass adding enormously to the education of our palates and to our pleasure.

Saturday 25th June.

By chance, we happened to be in the city on the same day as the Annual Gay Parade. Nothing like it before had ever been witnessed by us, the scale of the parade, the spectacle, the acres of naked flesh, police officers of the same sex holding hands, the noise, the exuberance, the good humour was simply unique.  We were standing next to a lady and got into conversation where she revealed that she had just returned from a pilgrimage to Knock. What a bizarre coincidence. 

Sunday 26th June.

We attended a Theatre performance of Here Lies Jenny: starring Bebe Neuwrith, Lilith married to Fraser from the Fraser TV Series. She was completely cast against type and we enjoyed her sensual and highly accomplished comedic performance. Her down to earth manner even extended to speaking directly with members of the audience at the conclusion of the play.

Tuesday 28th June.

Very bright and early, up with the lark and taxied to SFO Airport, for our trip back to Boston and then on homewards, back to Shannon and then Ennis.

This travel memoir has been 10 years in the writing, based on my wife’s scrapbook entries, brochures, ticket stubs and shared memories. It is dedicated to my travel partner, Mary, and to Peadar and Magdalene who helped to make our American Odyssey so marvelous and so unforgettable.